Thursday, August 16, 2012

The National September 11 Memorial

The National September 11 Memorial could only have been located here in New York City, within the footprint of the towers that fell over a decade ago. I can imagine it somewhere else. In a very quiet and somber location, one that promotes reflection and is more easily accessible. But that would be far from Manhattan. And ultimately it would seem to be in the wrong place.

It absolutely must be here. For reasons that go beyond what happened and what we have been through in the first decade of the 21st century. It was such an enormously horrible day and most of that horror happened here in lower Manhattan. Visitors will come to this place for centuries. To learn. To mourn. And to remember the thousands that were lost on that autumn day which dawned cool and beautiful but ended in a cataclysm of smoke, fire, destruction and incomprehensible grief.

I visited the new National Memorial earlier this month. It is located on Albany and Greenwich streets in Manhattan. Amid the noise of the city. The constant sounds of everyday urban life compressed and reflecting off concrete, steel and glass.  Add to that, the noise of construction cranes, jack hammers and every other offense to the ears that goes along with building two new mega-skyscrapers on the next block over.

I'm sure in the early design process, the issue of all this noise was considered and what they came up with to address it was simple: falling water and trees. Two square pools - the focus of the memorial -  are large square pits, each an acre in size, with water cascading 30 feet from each side into a pool and then a smaller pit below. They are now the largest man-made falls in North America, and their steady roar does blunt the ambient city noise. Above the pools, inscribed on bronze parapets, are the names of each victim. Computer screens nearby help visitors to find those names and where they are located within the park.

The museum space is unfinished but expected to open this fall. It will include walls of victims photographs, a crushed fire engine, steel beams deformed by the impact of the planes and a first for National Memorials: a walled space intended to inter the remains of unknown victims that is accessible only  to medical examiners so that more of the dead might one day be identified.

All this is within a 16 acre park landscaped with planted trees that are native to Manhattan, Washington D.C. and Shanksville, Pennsylvania. Most are swamp white oaks that will grow to 70 feet. One is a callery pear known as the Survivor Tree, because it withstood the initial attacks, and though recently damaged by wind, continues to thrive today.

The memorial absolutely must be here because this is where we began to heal. Only steps away is St. Paul's Chapel, where the rescue workers were offered food, rest and a place to pray. It is also free to visit and should not be missed.

The National September 11 Memorial is a beautiful scar on a heavyweight champion city. When complete, the entire plaza will be surrounded by the new World Trade Center complex. Visitors to the memorial will walk among office workers enjoying time outdoors, maybe having lunch on a park bench, or just getting away from their desks. Everyday life, as it was on 9/10, melding with the grief of names being read and water falling. Falling into voids that will never be never filled.


To Get There: From the Newark Airport hotels: take the city bus or Airtrain to Newark Penn Station. Then take the PATH train to the World Trade Center. Takes about an hour, cost is $3.50 each way (using the Airtrain costs more)